Laura sends in a great lighting suggestion, Rachelle asks about 1840's corset resources and Hanna wonders how to make a 1950's style bra for her new dress.
This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. with your questions, letters and advice by February 1st, 2010 for next month's column.
Laura sends in this tip
For too long I have struggled with machine stitching when using the same colour thread (especially the dreaded black on black) to line up boning channels, and I've found detail work such as flossing a strain on the eyes. Why is it that you can always see the bits that didn't turn out so great, as clear as day, AFTER you've finished?
I tried all manner of lamps, often stitching with several dotted around the sewing machine. Then my sewing machine supplier gave me a great tip - the Global lamp from Ikea (UK) (US Ikea link)
It has a long tube that floods your work area with a natural light that allows you to see all the details of your work clearly. It enables you to focus on a particular area without straining your eyes.
It has four points for adjustment and so will manage any angle you need it to get into.
The G-clamp frees up space on your work area and means you can stretch it out with fear of the lamp falling over. I use it on my sideboard next to the sofa, then pull the light across to where I am sitting. Other lights, if placed on the sideboard, wouldn't reach and if it wasn't clamped to the sideboard it would likely fall over.
But the best part is that I can see everything clearly without straining my eyes and I have room to move freely. Using it has noticably increased the accuracy of my stitching and productivity.
At £12.99 (UK) / $19.99 (US) it's a bargain in comparision to the daylight lamps I have seen in hobby stores and haberdashers. Oh - and it also comes in silver!
Rachelle asks
I've been scouring all my costume books and the internet for the past three days trying to come up with a viable jumping off point for an 1840s corset. There's the one style in Corsets and Crinolines, but again...it's ONE STYLE. There are a couple owned by the Costume Institute in Kyoto, but those are the only ones I've been able to find. Do you know of any others?
In the book Corsets: Historical Patterns and Techniques by Jill Salen there are two 1840's corsets with patterns. For a period text on the subject, The workwoman's guide, containing instructions in cutting out and completing articles of wearing (1840) has a section on stays and corsets, including detailed instructions for making up. The pieces are illustrated here: Stays and Corsets plate 11, figures: 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, and the instructions for making up start on this page
1840's corsets in museum collections
Antique Corset Gallery Metropolitan Museum of Art- Corset, 1810–1850 American
- Corset, 1840s American Gift of Mrs. Albert S. Morrow, 1937 (C.I.37.45.93)
- Corset, 1840s , American or European, Gift of Miss Genevieve Karr Hamlin, 1942 (C.I.42.74.12)
- Corset, 1820–1839, American. Gift of Mrs. Jerome Lauren, 2000 (2000.479)
- Corset, 1839–1841, American or European, Gift of Lee Simonson, 1938 (C.I.38.23.10b–d)
- Corset, 1830s–1840s, American or European, Gift of Mr. J. C. Hawthorne, 1946 (C.I.46.82.23)
- Corset, 1825–1850, American or European, Purchase, Irene Lewisohn and Alice L. Crowley Bequests, 1985 (1985.153)
Hanna asks
I'm making a 1950s dress (original pattern) and petticoat (original drafting instructions - takes 48m (53yds) of ribbon to edge it!). The dress is halterneck and therefore will require some special underwear. Given my size (28F) I've not got a hope in hell of buying a halter bra so was thinking of making a corset to wear under it, maybe 2-3" reduction (I already have a 27" waist). Would the corset drafting tutorial pattern be suitable (extended a bit at the top) or would I need one with gores, or something else? I'm quite smitten on the idea - I think it'll be great with frilly knickers!
Many thanks,
Hanna
Hanna,
It sounds like you're looking for a "Merry Widow Corselette". See these ads for an example: Warner's ad from 1954 | Warner's ad from 1956 | Corset, 1950s, American in the Met collection.
The basic shape is very similar to shape wear found in the 1933 book, The Practical Corsetiere, particularly the Eight Section Corselette or Twelve Section Corselette. The Bust uplifts (Creating seperate cups) section explains how to modify the pattern to add separate cups, like the 1950's styles seen in the ads above. Support wise, I think adding a halter neck strap is a good idea.
For the wires, Bra Maker's Supply would be the place to go. I'd email them to find out what size wire would work for a 28F. They also have a book The Bra Maker's Manual which might provide some help in the actual construction. Try somewhere like the English Couture Company if you're in the UK - they also run bra-making courses.
I hope you let us know how it works out!
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