Sometimes we are presented with more than one problem during the fitting stage, creating a source of great frustration and confusion. You fix a problem with the bustline, but then tackling an issue with the waist makes the bustline looks wrong again. It seems like you can't win.

So I developed the following step-by-step techniques. Let me walk you through the whole "toile" (mock-up) process.

The Toile

I recommend making your toile out of a fabric that mimics the strength, weave and behaviour of the intended strength layer for your corset. Then you can ensure that the tests and changes made during this fine-tuning stage give as accurate a picture as possible of the behaviour of your finished corset.

Now, that's all well and good if you know how to fix the problems with your toile. But what if you can't work out what is wrong, much less how to fix it?

I used to look at my corset toiles and think “Eh? That’s not what it’s supposed to look like!” and I would spent hours cluelessly trying to “fix” it, usually just making a mess of it.  I made two major errors:

1. I tried to fix several problems at once
2. I had no clue what I was doing and was pulling answers out of the air – which knows nothing about making corsets, by the way.

So I developed the following technique:

Step 1: Identify What Is Wrong

Put on the toile (with the seam allowances on the outside) and take a deep breath.  Look at the shape it gives and work out, in general terms, what is wrong with it. If the corset is for you, ask a friend to help you with the next few steps. 

For example, when looking at the fit across the bustline: 

• Does your bust spill over the top of the toile? 
• Is there a gap between your bust and the top of the toile? 
• Do the seams follow the same lines as they do in the picture of the corset?
•  If the shape looks wrong, ask why? 
• Does the curve of the bust start to high or too low down? 
• Is the shape of the bust round enough or does it look flat?

Don’t think about how to fix these problems at this stage. Instead focus on working out what is wrong and writing it down.

Step 2: Work Out Why It Is Wrong

Try and work out the source of the problems - where change is needed - while you are still wearing your toile. Don’t worry about how you will implement these changes on the pattern just yet. 

• If the curve of the bust starts too high up, by how much does it needs to be lowered? 
• If there is a gap between your bust and the top of the toile, where does the gap start: above, below or on the nipple line? By how much does it need to be taken in to correct it? 
• If you are spilling over the top of the toile, try to work out if it’s because there isn’t enough room in the toile, it needs nipping in above the nipple line and/or whether the top of the toile needs lengthening.

Step 3: Try Fixing It

Sometimes we are presented with more than one problem during the fitting stage, creating a source of great frustration and confusion. You fix a problem with bustline, but then tackling an issue with the waist makes the bustline looks wrong again. It seems like you can't win.

Knowing how changes made in one area of a corset toile can affect another area is important to ensure you don't make more work for yourself at the fine tuning stage – and in my case, essential for ensuring that the tailor's dummy (complete with cock-eyed corset toile) doesn't get thrown head first into the garden.

For this reason I have come up with an ordering system for making changes to a corset toile, which works for the majority of designs. After each step I take a quick look at previous areas to double-check that they have not been affected by more recent changes.

Where possible, while still wearing the toile try making temporary fixes using pins or small stitches (ask a friend to help you if the corset is for you, and be careful not to poke yourself with the needle/pins!) So if you noted that the toile needs nipping in above the nipple line by about an inch, spilt the amount by the number of seams across the breast and create small darts along the seam lines accordingly. If this looks to be working out okay, take the toile off and restitch using your machine.  Check the fit again.

1. Fine tune the waist first. Ensuring that the waist of the toile is positioned on the natural waistline is essential. Check fit (ie. step back, take a deep breath and re-evaluate).	2. Then look at the bottom front panels. Don't try to correct problems with sagging stomachs ("mum tums") on the lowest 2" (5cm) of the toile yet. Check fit.
3. Next, ensure the side panels are correctly distributed around the side hip. Check fit.	4. Ensure the lower back follows the arch of the back. Check fit.
5. Ensure the upper back and underarm panels are correctly distributed. If your corset toile has a high back, ensure that the movement of the shoulder blade is not impeded. Check fit.	6. Fine tune the bust.
7. Shape the bottom edge of the corset toile as required and correct gaping issues with a sagging or rounded stomach ("mum tum").	8. Shape the top edge of the corset toile.

Do not be tempted to wear your corset "higher" or "lower" on the waist if you decide that the top or bottom of the toile isn't long/short enough. Instead adjust the top/bottom edge of the corset toile accordingly.

100% Happiness Factor

The process of fine-tuning your corset toile is finished when you are 100% happy with the fit.

Don't be tempted to say "I'll take that seam in a little on the actual corset when I make it". Make the change on the toile and check the fit. It really isn't worth risking all your hard work, especially for something that would take a few minutes to check.

I often find this particular temptation creeps in when I am tired or have been working on a toile that has been difficult to fine tune. Take a break, do something relaxing and then go back to it when you are feeling calmer. Or if the urge to just "get it done" and move on is too much, take a few deep breaths and persevere that little bit longer. Once you have finished you will be rewarded with a sense of satisfaction that may never come if you skip that last little bit of fine-tuning. This is your creation, borne from hours of hard work. "That will do" will only put all that hard work at risk. Many of the corsets I have from when I was finding my feet have glaring errors in them. I was too impatient to spend an extra few minutes fine-tuning properly, and I have spent years regretting it every time I look at them.

If you have no idea how to fix the problem, do some research.  Check to see if the articles published in this fitting series detail a way to fix the problem (coming soon - bear with me, I’m slowly working through it in as much detail as I can).  I have found books on pattern alteration and pattern drafting to be an essential resource when I get stuck.  Look for alterations that involve pattern pieces with similar shapes to your patterns.  If you don’t have any books there are some fabulous free tutorials online. I learnt how to adjust a princess seam by googling “bust pattern alterations”.

Two Final Steps

Once you have a fit you are happy with, there are two final steps. 

Live in It

The first is that you have to live in it – for a little while.  Check that the toile allows you the level of mobility you would expect to achieve in your final corset.  Move about, sit down, try to pick something up off the floor, try leaning forwards. Ideally you should look to wear your toile for at least half an hour. If you are uncomfortable at the end of it, chances are it will only get worse the longer you wear it. 

I made a corset for a friend, with the standard two inch reduction but a three inch gap at the back.  She wore it out one night and I noticed that she had laced the waist area completely closed.  I advised her to loosen the laces before we left and she refused, saying it felt "fine”.  She struggled to get into the taxi, and within half an hour of arriving at the party she was looking awkward. An hour later she had disappeared to the bathroom, and was in agony struggling to get the laces undone.

Check the Seams

The last thing you should check are your seams:  How are they holding up?  Is there any gaping or pulling on the fabric? If so:

1. Check your thread tension and stitch length
2. Consider using a stronger seam
3. Let the toile out a little bit.

These last two steps are essential if you are reducing any part of your corset by more than the standard two inches (5cm).

In Conclusion

Fine-tuning can be a difficult process but if you stay calm, take it one step at a time and persevere, the rewards are visible to all.  We all make mistakes, we all get stuck, but that is not always a bad thing. Sometimes we can learn so much more by getting it wrong and fixing it.

So if it takes a little longer than you expected don’t worry, you’re in good company, as Dita von Teese reveals here: