Overview of Six Antique Petticoats

I’ll be analyzing the trim on six petticoats in my personal collection.

Bess Moser’s Petticoat

Below is the American Bess Moser’s wedding petticoat (according to the tag at the estate auction). The 2009 estate sale was for Bess Moser’s 92 year old daughter, so the petticoat dates to at least 1917, and based on the style, I’d guess an earlier date than that, between 1905 and 1910. I do not think this petticoat has been altered, except to remove the seventh tuck from the bottom of the group of tucks directly above the top ruffle. This alteration may have been done by the original owner. The petticoat is made of plain-weave cotton very similar in weight and hand to modern muslin (calico in the UK). It is decorated with tucks and fine Cluny lace.

Front	Side	Back

Lacy Petticoat

The Lacy Petticoat was found in the American seller’s grandmother’s attic, so it’s very likely to have been American. The style could date it anywhere from about 1895 to 1910. I believe the original waistband has been removed to make this petticoat a more modern size; currently there is no way to fasten the waist. The body of the petticoat is made of slightly stiff plain-weave cotton similar to modern pre-washed muslin (ie. when it still has the sizing in it). The flounce is made of lighter and softer plain-weave sheer cotton similar to modern cotton batiste. The ruffle is decorated with Valenciennes lace and rows of embroidery, using a variation on the feather stitch.

Woven Lace Petticoat

A friend of mine gave me this petticoat when she was cleaning out her attic in Cleveland, Ohio. It’s probably American, but neither of us knows anything more about it. The style dates to between 1900 and 1910. The body of the petticoat is made of very soft plain-weave cotton, similar to modern cotton lawn. The ruffle is made from graduating tiers of a heavy lace. I believe it is a form of woven lace (lace made like fabric, by weaving: machines could weave such lace in the 19th century) but it might be a crochet lace or finely knitted lace.

Eyelet Petticoat

This petticoat was bought in the US so it’s probably American. The style dates to between 1900 and 1910. The entire petticoat is made of a plain-weave ivory cotton, slightly softer and lighter then modern muslin (calico in the UK). The ruffle is decorated with eyelet lace.

Embroidered Petticoat

This petticoat was bought in the US so it’s probably American. I am not sure if the yoke and drawstring waist treatment is original to the petticoat or not. The fabric above the first row of insertion is soft cotton twill with no signs of age, whereas the insertion and everything below it is made of a plain-weave cotton very similar to modern muslin (calico in the UK). This fabric does show signs of age. If the top is original to the petticoat then the style dates to between 1895 and 1910.

The ruffle is decorated with elaborate whitework embroidery that includes Punto tagliato (fancy cutwork similar to the Drawn Threadwork Cuffs Masterclass by Bess Chilver at Your Wardrobe Unlock'd). For more information on how to do Victorian and Edwardian cutwork, see The Encyclopedia of Needlework by Thérèse de Dillmont.

Cutwork Petticoat

This petticoat was bought in the US so it’s probably American. The style dates to between 1905 and 1910. The entire petticoat is made of a light but slightly stiff (as if it were starched) plain-weave cotton which is slightly lighter then modern muslin (calico in the UK). The stiffness is similar to modern unwashed muslin. The ruffle is decorated with elaborate whitework embroidery featuring both eyelets and Punto tagliato (fancy cutwork similar to the Drawn Threadwork Cuffs Masterclass by Bess Chilver at Your Wardrobe Unlock'd). For more information on how to do Victorian and Edwardian cutwork, see The Encyclopedia of Needlework by Thérèse de Dillmont (link above).