Following the death of movie star Jane Russell a few weeks ago, Mark shows us how to adapt his basic "How to Make a Bra" series to produce the distinctive vintage 1950s look.

First we need to draft a Fifties shaped cup with slightly too much fullness. This small amount of excess will be taken away by the spiral stitching.

We can use the Darted cup master block pattern as a start, but we will divide the cup into four parts to get the "artillery shells under your sweater" look (that distinctively pointy Fifties shape) and we will move the cup apex (strap position) to a place more directly above the "point of bust".

When drafting the cradle for this Fifties bullet bra, use a deep underwire of the sort that you would use for a strapless bra, ie. MS08 shape. Start with your underwire, as before, draft the cradle/wings first so that you know the cradle-to-cup seam length, and mark this length around the cup edge, as with the other bras.

Next, trace/copy your master cup block on to a new sheet of paper. Move the cup apex (strap position) to a position more above the "point of bust".	Next split the cup up into four parts along lines 1, 3 and 6.
On a new sheet of paper, place the bottom two cup panels together at the top of the dart curve and draw a smooth curve along lines 3 & 6. On the split line 1, draw a shallow curve on one side of the line and copy the curve to the other side of the line (see diagram). This will give a rounded shape to the top half of the cup.	Place the two top cup panels together, so that the line 1 curves are touching at the PB end, and draw a smooth, shallow curve along lines 3 & 6.
Now add a 5mm seam allowance all round each cup panel and add pattern marks, making-up and identification comments.	Stick together a paper mock-up of the cup to check for shape and seam lengths.

Stitching the Spirals

For cup fabric, two layers of thin cotton fabric for the cups works best for a stiff (almost starched) 1950s bra. Cut one layer on the bias and the other layer on the grain. This will give a cup that will not stretch at all.

The trick with sewing the spiral stitching on the bra cups is to use a narrow foot (5mm seam guiding) and start the spiral sewing from the centre of the cup (point of bust) and work outwards to the edge. If you start sewing from the edge of the cup spiralling inwards, you will miss the centre of the cup (I can guarantee it). Also, if your sewing machine has the option, lower the foot pressure setting so that you can rotate the cup more easily as you sew. REMEMBER to sew a left-handed spiral on one cup and a right-handed spiral on the other cup.

Take your time and sew slowly, as you are sewing a three dimensional object. One cup before spiral stitching:	Start in the centre of the cup.
Spiral out to the edge.	I have not done any spiral stitching for a while, so please excuse the "hiccup" at the start of this spiral cup!

For a more authentic 1950's bra, make the bra straps partly from rigid tape / ribbon. Do not use bra strap sliders for adjustment, but attach two bra strap rings to each cup apex. Thread the bra strap through both rings then back through one ring (below).

Sew cups into the cradle following the instructions in the other bra articles: part 1, part 2, part 3.

Put the bra on and pull the ends of the straps to adjust. If you have threaded the straps through the rings correctly, the straps should "lock" in place. Tuck the ends of the straps into the tops of the cups.

To try out your new artillery under battlefield conditions, put on your tightest sweater, reddest lipstick and learn how to jive! Also seamed stockings add more infantry to your artillery. Get this bra right and Marilyn and Jane will be smiling down upon you.

Dedicated to the memory of Jane Russell, 1921 to 2011. A true beauty and a real star of the silver screen.


Next time I will discuss negative ease for stretch fabrics so that you can make a girdle to go with your bullet bra!