In this article I'd like to explain several ways of creating a well-fitting overbust corset with push-up effect. You will learn about some important parameters that influence the position of the bust and how to modify them to achieve the desired push-up effect.

During the last few years, I have made overbust corsets for all kinds of body types. While clients with bigger bust sizes usually ask for corsets that provide good support and keep the bosom in place without creating the impression of extra volume, clients with smaller bust sizes often ask me for corsets with push-up effect to make the bust look a little fuller.

To do this desire justice, I have experimented with different kinds of corset patterns, neckline shapes and additional padding in the bust area. For this article I've developed some mock-ups and illustrative material, which should demonstrate the effect of different adjustments.

Let's begin with the topic of pattern construction, as it is the base of every corset.

 

Adjusting a classic Victorian overbust pattern to achieve a push-up effect

Before I go into the details, I'd like to point out that whether a corset provides a push-up effect, or not, depends mainly on the position of the breasts. Breasts in a higher position usually look pushed upwards, while a lower bust position appears closer to our natural proportions.

To illustrate what I'm talking about, I took some pictures of myself, wearing two different bras - one with a quite relaxed fit, where the breasts are kept in its natural position. A second bra provides much more support and lifts the breasts, and therefore creates a noticeable push-up effect.

On the left picture a bra with relaxed fit, which results in a lower nipple position.
On the right picture a bra with push-up effect, which keeps the bust in a noticeably higher position.

As you can see, especially on the side views, the second bra lifts the bust significantly - which is what we also want to achieve with our corset. So the question is: "What do we do with our normal fitting overbust pattern to lift the bust?"

1) A first step will be to lift the nipple point on the bust seam - If the the nipples are positioned higher, the entire breast will be lifted to a higher position. Looking at the pictures of the two different bras again, you can see that the second bra does exactly the same. I have marked the nipple point on the pictures for comparison.

Here are two diagrams of an overbust pattern, which show the initial pattern and the discussed modification.

Classic victorian hourglass overbust pattern with six panels per side. The same pattern with lifted nipple point (here, for example, by 1.5cm).

To find out how much you should lift the nipple point, it's best to experiment with a well fitting bra that provides the desired push-up effect.

Put the bra on and measure from waist to nipple. Then check this measurement against the nipple point measurement on your existing normal overbust pattern. Raise the point by that, certainly different, measurement.

If you don't have an appropriate bra, you can also lift the breasts with your hands (or respectfully ask your client to lift the breast to the desired position) and then take the measurement. If you do this for a corset for yourself, you will likely need help of a second person to take the measurement, while you are holding the breasts in place.

In general, the following rule applies: The larger the cup size, the bigger the measurement by which you lift the nipple point. The reason: a bigger bust is more voluminous and, therefore, can be lifted higher than a small bust.

In my case I have chosen a measurement of 1.5cm. That works fine for B to C cup sizes, in my experience.

If you don't have an existing, normal fitting, overbust pattern to start with - you can, of course, use the raised nipple point measurement to create a new pattern from scratch. Just exchange the normal nipple point measurement with the new raised one.

For comparison, let's take a look at these two mock-ups which I have created from a normal fitting overbust pattern:

 Mock-Up of a classic Victorian hourglass corset with normal fit in the bust area.

...and an adjusted pattern with raised nipple point:

 Mock-Up of a classic Victorian hourglass corset with push-up effect in the bust area

The discussed modification is part of the push-up effect you can see on the second mock-up.

2) Apart from the nipple point, the curve of the bust seam also plays an important role. While a normal fitting pattern should have a nicely-curved bust seam, which follows the shape of your breasts and provides enough room to keep them in place, you can choose a flatter seamline to create a corset with push-up effect.

The same pattern as pic 6 and 7 with a flatter bust curve.

A less-curved bust seam means less room for the bust to sink into the corset, so it will necessarily stay in a higher position. If you choose this pattern adjustment, you also will have to make the top edge area wider (less curved-in), because your breasts will need the extra room you have taken out around the nipple point. If you stick to the same close-fitting curve on the top edge, the corset might dig in or cause that unpleasant 'spill over' effect...

Top edge in the bust area is higher and wider with this modification.

3) At the same time it might be necessary to make the top-edge higher, so the pushed bust is still nicely covered. You can also exaggerate at this point and create a really high wing-like shape, for example...

Some suggestions for neckline designs in different shapes and heights.

This looks even more dramatic with a very low center front, which also reveals more of the pushed bust.

My third mock-up was made from a different corset pattern than the first two ones - but I decided to use it as reference nevertheless, as it is a good example for a very low-cut center front, which rises to a high pointed shape and creates a nice push-up effect.

Toile with low-cut center front and a high pointed wing-shaped top edge.

For very small cup sizes I wouldn't recommend a center front that low,however, as such deep plunge neckline usually accentuates a small bust more than it covers it. Plunge necklines work better for bigger cup sizes in my experience, but there is definitely still a lot of room for creative shaping around the neckline - even for very small cup sizes.

At this point, as always, I would suggest you make a mock-up once you have applied these adjustments, so you can fine-tune the width and height of the neckline and check the position of the bust. Also, it will help you to decide if you want to add some additional padding for extra volume (which I will discuss later in this article). Personally, I'm a perfectionist when it comes to shapes and lines of a pattern, but a mock-up helps to make sure that the bust area and neckline look flattering, that nothing spills over or digs in, and so on...

 

Different corset styles

As you might have noticed, some corset styles generally provide a quite obvious push-up effect and prominent cleavage, while others tend to cover the bust and maybe even make it look smaller than it is. In particular, covering the chest with a very high neckline is often not an ideal option for small bust sizes, as there is not much room for adding extra volume. Why not consider a corset style with lower neckline and add a push-up effect instead?

Talking about corset styles, this basic rule applies: The straighter the seamlines of a corset style, the more it lifts the bust. In the pattern discussion above, I have covered classic Victorian hourglass corsets, which are the most common style nowadays. They are built in a way to provide a curvy silhouette and the pattern construction requires some thought and attention to achieve a flattering style with nice proportions.

Compared to that, stays are made from much straighter pattern pieces and therefore usually push the bust on principal. This comes from the conical shape of stays and the straight seamlines, which again give less room for the breasts to sink into the corset.

Examples of stays I have made, showing the push-up effect.

I have done several stays for very slender ladies and they were always pleased with the nice cleavage it provided, so if you are looking for a corset style that provides a good push-up effect, stays definitely might be worth a thought. For very small cup sizes, and ladies who prefer a very curvy décolleté, the pattern adjustments discussed above, however, still might not be enough for their taste.

In this case I usually go for:

 

Additional Padding to provide some extra volume

This technique works for any corset shape and style and it's a quick and easy method to experiment with extra volume. The padding can be built in the corset during construction, for example, attached to the corset strength layer and hidden underneath floating lining (which results in a permanent padding). Alternatively, it can be attached afterwards to the finished corset, either permanently stitched to the lining or added as removeable padding (for example with little pockets, like in some push-up bras).

Consider if you want the push-up effect to be permanent or removeable (or discuss it with your client) and decide which option you prefer. It also might be worth a thought; that removeable padding can be taken out for washing. If you are creating a corset that is meant to be worn on a regular basis or very often, it would be sensible to make the padding removeable and washable.

 

Creating the padding itself

The quick and easy way is, of course, to buy ready-made padding at your haberdashery supplier. For example, my local supplier carries push-up pads in various shapes and sizes. If you can't find ready-made push-up pads, you could also look in lingerie shops or departments. Sometimes they sell separate push-up pads for bras, or they might have some left from customers who didn't want them and removed them from their bras.

Ready-made push-up pads in two different sizes.

I have cut out the padded area to get rid of the pre-moulded shape and finished the edges with satin bias tape.

The second option is to make some padding yourself; customised to the shape of the corset and your desires concerning size and volume. I often use shoulder pads as a base and, if necessary, use additional wadding to model the desired shape of padding. If I use wadding, or if the base shoulder pads are not covered in fabric, the pads have to be covered with fabric in the end so they don't pill. Soft cotton jersey or mesh works fine for that purpose.

Self-made padding from shoulder pads: A single shoulder pad, covered with black mesh for very subtle padding and two shoulder pads (one covered with mesh, one covered with cotton jersey to show the difference) stitched together for medium volume padding.

For Victorian corset styles I recommend kidney shaped padding, which should be positioned in the corset diagonally below the breast, so the breast sits on top of the padding and will therefore be lifted, and also gently pushed towards the center front.

I placed a kidney-shaped pad on the inside of a mock-up to show the desired position for the padding.

For stays and other less curvy corset styles, I recommend semi-circle padding to push the bust straight upwards (best use the discussed shoulder pads for this purpose).

Two semi circle pads placed on the inside of stays.

 

How to attach the padding

If you want to attach the padding permanently (either to the strength layer itself, or to the corset lining - as discussed above) I stitch the pads on three or four points: left side, bottom and right side. This keeps the padding in place but doesn't flatten the pads on the top edge, where it should be voluminous.

The red marks show where the padding should be stitched to the corset / lining.

For removeable padding, I attach two little pockets, made of soft mesh (cotton jersey works as well) to the lining, with only a small opening on the side. The pads can be easily inserted or removed. Depending on the body type and desired look a combination of the techniques discussed above should help you to construct a well fitting overbust corset which creates a flattering push-up effect.

 

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