At the end of the article "Silverado Corset, Start To Finish 1" we had calculated the required dimensions of our corset and had plotted the pattern's waistline. In response to feedback we will now look at altering the pattern (from where I left it in the first article) to fit the required dimensions.

What follows is my technique for altering existing patterns and is based on my own personal experiences. It is important to remember that it is almost impossible to draft a pattern that will fit perfectly first time. There are many reasons for this, the main one being that all bodies are unique and squish differently. So what we are aiming for is to get as close as possible. Finding you need to make a few adjustments at the toile stage is normal; it does not mean that you have failed to alter your pattern correctly. If this is your first time at altering a pattern, take your time and read through each section before you make any changes to your pattern pieces.

A large part of the process of pattern altering is intuitive, stemming from your own experiences. I have tried to translate my process into guidelines to help with the decision making process for adjusting the Silverado to your measurements, but if you do find yourself unsure how to proceed, remember the golden rule: Cut the larger option and take it in during the toile stage. It's much easier to make the corset smaller after cutting and making your toile than to have to recut the panels and make them bigger (and cheaper too!)

So let's begin.

Horizontal Dimensions

In the last article I stated that I would not have a seam on the straight edge of panel 16, and would instead be cutting this panel on a fold. So the first thing weneed to do is reduce the straight edge of panel 16 by 16mm.

The next step is to measure the marked waistline. We start by measuring the pattern's waistline using the size chosen from the back of the envelope in the first article and altering as appropriate.

When altering the waistline I follow these guidelines:

If the Waist Size Chosen Is Too Big:

1. If the difference between the size required and the size chosen is more than 24mm too wide: Go up one size for each 25mm, then refer to the next relevant option. For example, if the waistline measurements are 62mm too wide, go up two sizes, make a note of the remaining 12mm and proceed to step 4.

2. If the difference is more than +20mm but less than +25mm: Grade the waistline between the chosen size and the next size down on all the panels to make the necessary reduction. Alter the noted measurement for each panel.

3. If the collective measurement of the panels is more than +15mm but less than +20mm, you can reduce the waistline on the following panels:

• Panel 12 right pattern line,
• Panel 13 left and right pattern line,
• Panel 14 left and right pattern line,
• Panel 15 left and right pattern line,
• Panel 16 left pattern line.

Alter the noted measurement for each panel.

4. If the collective measurement of the panels is more than 8mm but less than 15mm, you can reduce the waistline on the following panels:

• Panel 13 right pattern line,
• Panel 14 left and right pattern line,
• Panel 15 left and right pattern line,
• Panel 16 left pattern line.

5. If the collective measurement of the panels is more than 0mm but less than 8mm, you can reduce the waistline on the following panels:

• Panel 13 right pattern line,
• Panel 14 left and right pattern line,
• Panel 15 left pattern line,

How you distribute the reduction is a matter of personal taste. Distributing the reduction by an equal amount on each panel is less risky and creates a smoother appearance, but placing the majority of the reduction on the pattern lines indicated in option 5 is likely to result in more of a curve at the edge of the silhouette when looking face on. You need to balance comfort with aesthetics. You do not need to use all of the pattern lines indicated in each option, they are given as a guide as to which are suitable to alter.

BUT......

There are some rules that you need to consider when altering your pattern's waistline.

• When you alter one pattern line you must make the same change to its partner (the corresponding edge of the piece that it will be sewn to). So for the Silverado the following pattern lines are partnered as follows:
  •  Panel 11 right and Panel 12 left
  •  Panel 12 right and Panel 13 left
  •  Panel 13 right and Panel 14 left
  •  Panel 14 right and Panel 15 left
  •  Panel 15 right and Panel 16 left

So, as an example, any changes made to Panel 14 right must also be made to panel 15 left.

• Avoid reducing Panel 11 right and Panel 12 left as it will create a "bump and dip" at the front of the corset.
• Do not reduce Panel 11 left and Panel 16 right by any amount. Both must to be kept as straight lines in order to attach the busk and create a straight edge to the back of the corset, respectively.

If the Waist Size Chosen Is Too Small:

For each 25mm that the chosen size is too small, size up by one plus one more size if you have a remainder:

•  If the chosen size is 50mm too small, go up by two sizes and check your measurements.
•  If the chosen size is less than 25mm too small, go up by one size, check your measurements and then use the above guidelines to reduce the waistline.
•  If the chosen size is more than 25mm but less than 50mm too small, go up by two sizes, check your measurements and then use the above guidelines to reduce the waistline.

So let's take a look at our panel pieces...

I find it is helpful to write the measurement on the waistline for future reference.

Position: Waistline

Required Measurement: 538mm

Mark the waistline on each side to indicate the size chosen and measure between them. In the picture I have marked these points in pen so that they can be clearly recognised. In practice I would mark them in pencil first and then mark them with pen when I have finished altering the waistline. This way it is clear which mark denotes the cutting point later on.

Panel 11: 84mm

Panel 12: 77mm

Panel 13: 115mm

Panel 14: 88mm

Panel 15: 84mm

Panel 16: 100mm     

Total: 548

Difference: +10mm

In this instance the panels, when added together, are 10mm too wide. So I need to follow option 4 in the reduction guidelines.

1. If the collective measurement of the panels is more than 8mm but less than 15mm, Reduce the waistline on the following panels:

Panel 13 right pattern line,

Panel 14 left and right pattern line,

Panel 15 left and right pattern line,

Panel 16 left pattern line.

I'll reduce the panels as follows:

Panel 13 right: 3mm

Panel 14 left: 3mm

Panel 14 right: 2mm

Panel 15 left: 2mm

 

Adjusting the Bustline

Next we focus on the bustline. Unfortunately this is not marked on the pattern either. To find the bustline mark the point 15mm from the top edge of the pattern (for your chosen size) on panel 11 (right side). This marks the point where the bust gore is at its widest point.
Measure from the waistline to this mark, the measuring line should be at a 90 degree angle to the waistline. Use this measurement to plot the bustline on each of the panels. Measure and mark the distance on the left and right side of each panel, then draw a line through the marks. Remember, your measuring line should be at a 90 degree angle to the waistline.

On this line mark out the pattern size selected from the back of the pattern envelope and measure:

Position: Bustline

Required Measurement: 704mm

Panel 11: 89mm

Panel 12: 128mm

Panel 13: 96mm

Panel 14: 75mm

Panel 15: 89mm

Panel 16: 106mm

Panel Total: 583mm

Bust Gussets

Next we need to consider the bust gussets and select a size. I don't recommend using the pattern's size guide for this. It's usually miles too big – which is probably where most people struggle with fit. I find the following to be much more accurate:

1. Subtract the panel total from the required measurement. For this corset that would be 704 – 583 = 121mm

2. Divide the answer by 2 (there are two gussets per side). 121 / 2 = 60.5mm.

3. Select a gusset and make a mark 15mm from the top edge of the panel with the two notches (marked "1"). Measure across the width of the gusset ensuring your line is at a 90 degree angle to the grain line. I measure the C Cup at 71mm

4. Compare the measurement to the answer you arrived at in step 2. If the gusset is too wide, select a smaller cup. If the gusset is too narrow select a larger size.

The gussets increase in width by approximately 10mm,  find the closest and adjust as necessary. I find it is easiest to reduce the gusset, but it's up to you which works best. For this corset the C Cup gusset is too big, but the B Cup is pretty close to perfect.

A few things to remember when selecting bust gussets:

• If the client is slender but well endowed in the bustline it is worth going down a panel size and going up a gusset size. If the client is voluptuous but has a small bust size it is worth going up a panel size and going down a gusset size.

• If you are not sure – measure the client from underarm to underarm across the front and then across the back. Subtract the back measurement from the front. If the result is more than 20% of the total bustline measurement then go up a gusset size and go down a panel size. If the result is less than 5% then go up a panel size and down a gusset size.

How to find the percentage:

Find 1% of the total bust measurement:

Total bust measurement / 100 = 1%

Divide the difference between the front and back measurement by 1%

Difference / 1% = Total percentage.

Using the dimensions of this corset we have:

Total Bustline Measurement: 1046mm

Front Measurement: 615mm

Back Measurement: 431mm

Difference: 184mm

Find 1%:

1046 / 100 = 10.46

Divide the difference between the front and back measurement by 1%:

184 / 10.46 = 17.6%

This is within the range stated so there is no need to resize the panels or the gussets.

Now that we have correctly sized the bustline we can move on to the hips.

Hips

To locate the hip line we follow a similar process as we did for the bustline. First find the widest point at the bottom of panel 14. Draw a line through this that is parallel to the waistline. Measure the distance between the hipline and the waistline and make a note of it.
Plot this distance on the remaining panels, using the same method used for plotting the bustline. Remember to make sure your hipline is parallel to the waistline.
Now measure the hipline for each panel between the chosen sized pattern lines. Position: Hips Required Measurement: 670.5mm Panel 11 = 83mm Panel 12 = 78mm Panel 13 = 146mm Panel 14 = 119mm Panel 15 = 112mm Panel 16 = 136mm Total = 674mm Difference = +3.5mm
When altering the hipline the same guidelines apply as for the waistline. In this instance I will reduce panel 14 (right) and panel 15 (left). Now we have completed our horizontal adjustments, I find this is a good time to redraw the left and right pattern lines for each panel. If you have varying sizes marked for the bustline, waist and hips, graduate the new pattern line to connect your markings. Keep an eye on the intended shape of the pattern line and use it as a guide. Again people graduate the pattern line differently: If you graduate the difference between the waist and hip in a short space just below the waistline, you will likely end up with dramatic curving from the waist to the hip, but this method risks a bumpy look to the corset silhouette. If you graduate the difference over a longer space you will get a smoother line to the silhouette but will reduce the risk of the corset looking bumpy. I prefer a smoother silhouette, so I will make the graduation over a longer space.

Next time: Adjusting the Vertical Dimensions! 

add