When I asked which method you'd prefer me to demonstrate for creating boning channels, this one proved very popular. I have to say, I smile every time I use it. Namely because I have a memory full of battling to line up an assortment of coutil strips, twill and all manner of things in an attempt to create internal boning channels. And I also remember the hours of unpicking and cross words when I discovered things were lined up incorrectly!

The Two Layer Cheat Method creates boning channels which are more subtle than external boning channels, but that's not to say you can't make your boning channels more interesting with clever uses of different colour/types of thread. I once made a rainbow corset which consisted of a plain white coutil outer and different colour threads used for the boning channels. The result was quite striking.

The principle for the Two Layer Method is actually really simple, it's a simplified version of using two layers of coutil (one as the outer layer and the other as the inner layer). Instead of making a double coutil layer corset, you cut one set of panels with seam allowance included and one with seam allowances removed. Before stitching the panels together to create the corset, stitch the panel with the seam allowance removed to the corresponding panel with the seam allowance added, creating a single panel. Then stitch through both layers to create the boning channel.

The Three Headaches

What I really like about this method is the fact that we can avoid three of the headaches of the aforementioned double coutil layer technique:

1. Turn of Cloth  

When you take two identical layers of fabric, placed one on top of the other and then wrap them around a curved object, the top layer appears to shrink. There are some excellent articles on the internet that explain why: type "Turn of Cloth" into your search engine. Threads magazine's website has a fantastic explanation. This means that when your corset has more than one layer you must take turn of cloth into account to avoid some uncomfortable wrinkles. It can be tricky, especially when your base fabric has zero "give" or stretch to it. So double layering coutil is a headache waiting to happen. One of the sharpest curves in stitching is a pressed seam line, and as such its effect is quite dramatic. It can appear to shrink your fabric by 1-4mm (depending on the thickness of the fabric). The Two Layer Cheat Method avoids this problem because the bottom layer never gets stitched as part of a seam.

2. Stitch in the Ditch 

The staple procedure for the double coutil method requires that you line up the top layer seam with the bottom layer seam and then stitch through them. I've tried it; neither I nor my fingers enjoyed the experience. There is logic to it - it prevents the layers shifting in different directions, keeping the corset in shape - but it's not for me. The Two Layer Cheat Method totally bypasses the need to stitch your outer layer to your inner layer.

3. Bulky Seams

The double coutil layer method results in bulky seams, which can be tricky to resolve. But the Two Layer Cheat avoids this problem because the inner layer of coutil is not incorporated into the seams.

Creating The Two Layer Cheat

So here's how we create the Two Layer Cheat.

Note: For the purposes of this demonstration I have marked my boning channels with a pencil. I do not recommend you do this without checking you can remove the markings. In my experience they don't come out easily, if at all. I am also using a different (darker colour) coutil for my inner panel piece so that the layers can be seen clearly.

Take your freezer paper pattern for panels 12-15. If you don't want any of your boning channel stitching to be visible on the inside of your corset, then include panels 11 and 16. Now you need to remove the seam allowance from the left and right side of the panels. For panel 11, do not trim the busk edge and for panel 16, trim the straight edge by 3cm only. I find the quickest way to do this is to machine stitch the seam allowance with an unthreaded needle. If you use the smallest stitch setting possible you should be able to simply tear the seam allowance off. If not, trim with scissors/rotary cutter. For this demonstration I will be using panel 14.

Now take the coutil panel pieces you cut out in the last article and stitch the seam allowance with a threaded needle, this time set your stitch length to 4mm (6 or 7 stitches per inch) and above (it will make it easier to remove them later). On the right side of the fabric, mark out all boning channels positioned 1.5cm away from the seam line. See the article "Planning Out Boning Channels" for demonstrations of various techniques.

Now use your trimmed freezer paper pattern to re-cut your panel pieces out of your strength layer. You can use another fabric, but ensure that it has the same characteristics as listed for external boning channels in the previous article. We will call these the inner panel pieces and the coutil panels we cut in the last article will be called the outer panel pieces.

Next, place the outer panel piece wrong side up, and put the corresponding inner panel piece on top, right side up and positioned inside the stitched seam lines on the outer panel.

Tacking stitch (baste) into place by running a line of stitches through the centre of the panel, using a wide stitch setting on your machine (it will make the stitches easier to remove later).

Now, remember I said this method avoided the worst of turn of the cloth? Well, it doesn't avoid all of it. This is because the corset will be worn on a curved body. So we need to address this or our inner panel pieces will develop wrinkles when worn – which can be uncomfortable and unsightly. We counteract Turn Of Cloth with Roll Pinning. Essentially, you place your two layers of fabric around a curved object and pin. This allows you to take account of the shrinking effect and avoid wrinkles, which is all very well until you have to create boning channels using two pieces of fabric which now appear to be of different sizes. So how do we get round this?

First we need to know how much Turn Of Cloth we are dealing with. So we need to roll pin. I know a lot of people who roll pin by placing their layers of fabric over their knee/thigh and stitching, others hang the fabric pieces over the edge of a table and stitch into place. Both are good techniques. But I found them fiddly. I also wasn't happy that they did not take into account the fact that torsos do not have a uniform curve: that is we are not all tubes. We all curve in different places and the amounts differ with placement too. For example, a friend and I have very similar waist and hip measurements but we have very different body shapes. She is more apple shaped in that she has a rounded tummy and so the curve of her hip as you go from the front to the back is smaller than mine. This is because I have a flat stomach (so not much curve there) and the curve from the front to the back going round my hip is much greater. So what does this mean? Well, it means that the front panels of my corset don't really need any roll pinning, while the panels that cover my hip (front to back) need roll pinning because the apparent shrinkage on the top layer will be a lot. My friend will need to have all of the front panels roll pinned, and the apparent shrinkage on the hip panels for her corset will be much less than mine.

To account for such differences, I've found the best way is to roll pin on a tailors dummy set up to mimic not only the client's measurements but their body shape too. Taking photos of your clients will help you transition from one client to the next when setting up your dummy. If you don't have a tailor's dummy, you can use cushions to simulate the required curve. But you will need to study the curve for each panel in more detail than with a dummy. It does take a little bit longer, but it is possible.

Roll Pinning on a Dummy

Take your panel piece, and with the outer panel facing outwards, place your panel piece in the corresponding position on the body. If you are unsure where each panel piece is positioned, check your pattern envelope and brown paper for diagrams of the completed corset. If you are using an adjustable dummy, pin some fabric over the gaps. I have strips of thin quilt that I use:

Once you have placed your panel on the dummy, stick pins along the tacking line to hold it in place.

With one hand, smooth outwards from the centre of the panel to the left hand edge. Place a line of pins about 3mm away from the inside edge of the first boning channel line positioned nearest the tacking stitch line. Do the same for the right hand side of the panel.

Note: In the photos I have removed the pins from the tacking stitch line and concentrated on a single boning channel line to keep the image clear (it started to look like a mass of pins everywhere). You should not remove the pins along the tacking stitch line until you remove your panel from the dummy.

Remove the panel from the dummy and tacking stitch approximately 1-2mm from the marked stitch line- the closer the better. Do not remove pins until you have finished your line of tacking stitches.

Return the panel to the dummy. This time, secure with pins along the next marked boning channel line (do this for both the left and right hand side of the panel). Then smooth outwards from the pin line and place a line of pins 3mm from the inside edge of the next marked boning channel line. Again, do this for both the left and right hand sides of the panel. Remove from the dummy as before and tacking stitch 1-2mm from the marked stitch line.

Continue this cycle until you have a line of tacking stitches alongside one marked line for each boning channel.  Remove the original tacking stitch line – in the picture above it is the red line of stitching.  Then machine stitch along your boning channel lines. See the article "Perfect Boning Channels" for demonstrations.

When you have finished stitching, if you look at the space between your boning channels you will probably find that your outer panel pieces curves away from the inner panel (like a bump) in some places. This is normal. When the corset is laced on the body, the outer panel and the inner panel will lay flat against each other - and you will have perfect boning channels, made the easy way!