When I saw the pattern of the E.F Hume corset, and his description in the patent, I just thought this was something for me: straight lines, simple construction method, and beautiful shape. I instantly planned to transform the pattern into an overbust, so I can wear it on its own. To make an overbust with this pattern, I needed to break the law of Lady Hume (“the first section is narrow at the top and wide at the bottom, the second section is wide at the top and narrow at the bottom and so on to the completion of the corset”) to allow for room for the breasts, particularly in the third panel.

Then, I wanted to integrate the corset into a full corset dress, and I did a dress with a beautiful luxury satin fabric with the same pattern as the corset, but I widen it from the waist to the bottom. I wanted to attach the satin dress on the neckline with a zipper, which was a pretty good idea, because it worked very well, so I had a removable dress over a hidden corset. That’s the reason why my corset isn’t so much embellished and why it has a zipper on the neckline.

But when I finished the satin overdress, I wasn’t happy at all with the result. Widen it from the waist was a mistake, because all the beautiful Edwardian shaping was lost under the dress, with all this fabric at the waistline and under it (see more in my diary, link below). I tested the overdress under the corset, not over it, and decided that as a skirt, it could do the job too, and achieve a better silhouette, much more like I had imagined at the beginning. So I cut the overdress and turned it into a skirt. I did a petticoat, and a cap too. The cap is made with softshell fabric and lined with brown velvet. Their bottom lines are all consistent with the bottom line of Lady Hume’s pattern.

I’m really pleased with the result despite the modification of the initial project, because the silhouette turns out like I wanted to. I think, in order to achieve the corset dress like I intended to, I just need to widen the pattern from the bottom line of the corset, and not already from the waist. Perhaps it will be a project for the future?

For the construction, I sew it with a single layer of coutil, internal boning channels and a red waist tape, for inner pleasure of the wearer (me). I plan to wear the complete outfit to attend a wedding in the Swiss alps in February, and I think this will do the job really great!

Dress Diary