When I'm working out of that book, I start by tracing off an exact copy of the original with pencil and tracing paper, including markings like the edge of corded areas and match marks. Then I can mark up that version and start to see where I'm going to want to change it. I started working up a version of that corset for a friend who was larger than the pattern. Here's how I went about it:

- I figured the bust at the top edge of the corset, the waist right at the top of the hip gores, and the hip at the bottom edge.

- I figured out how much I was going to need to add at the bust, waist, and hip. I think I also compared the bust-waist and waist-hip lengths, but they were pretty close.

I started with the waist, because that's only on two pattern pieces, and got the new side seam location at the waist marked with a dot for reference. Add more to the front than to the back.

Figure out how much needs to be added to the bust and hip. I just eyeball the general size (with reference to the desired final measurements) and used the original pattern as a reference for side-seam shapes, and then absorb the remainder into the gores. I may also have made the fores taller to account for greater bust volume.

Sadly, I never finished mocking up this corset, so I don't know how close the fit was. I wouldn't expect the first cut version to fit perfectly, but it would have been a lot closer than the book version.

So anyway - I don't know if you're going bigger or smaller, but that's my take on making it several inches larger.

I'd make a toile or paper model in the first instance to see how the sizing/shaping comes up, and then work from that. But another option (great for those who prefer equations and flat drafting) is to resize from the original pattern, following Cathy's splendid tutorial as a starting point:

foundationsrevealed.com/home/free-articl...drafting-masterclass

I usually make up a toile of the original pattern, especially if I'm unfamiliar with it, so that I can get a feel of how it works, and then I can tell where the adjustments are needed.
Not that I'm a professional..

I am also interested in the right answer about this question I would slightly modify the pattern to get the fit in the waist area (if necessary) but only at the side seams of the two main panels. The pattern is unusual and it's hard to keep the seams at the right position if you change anything. I would make all the gussets with an additional seam allowances and then see what can be expected when the toile is finished. I believe most of the adjustments will be on the gussets to get the right fit. I am not sure if this is correct, but at least is a start

Hi,

Has anybody done the Corded Taffeta Corset on page 39 from the book Corsets Historical patterns and techniques. I just don’t know where to start to make it fit for my shape.

Should I do a toile of the pattern without any adjustements at first? It seems to be the way people do it on this site. That not the way I learned.

Any advise is greatly appreciated

Judith