Add 5mm seam allowance around the wing pattern.

The wings will be made from Powernet and will have plastic boning next to the strap gates to stop the ends of the wings from wrinkling up.

Finally, one more part for the bra is to mark out the "Bridge" between the cups at the centre front.

This bridge can be made from ribbon or fabric tape that is at least 7mm wide. I will discuss other options for the bridge later.

First mark and cut out all the parts. Remember accuracy and industrial techniques, no pinning patterns to fabric and no cutting on the fold!

Flip patterns over to get left and right halves and use air erasable pen or fine chalk pencil to mark out.

Hem the cookie pad pocket openings, then tack stitch the pockets to the inside of the cup lower panels.

Use the cookie pad pocket pattern to put alignment marks on the cup lower panels for sewing.

In industry, it is usual to "notch" the pattern parts and fabric to aid alignment, you can obtain pattern notching pliers or you can use hand hole punches to punch half a hole on the edge of the paper / fabric.

Now sew the together the lower and upper cup panels together at the overbust seam, press open the seam and sew on seam tape.

Then fold over and sew down the neck hemlines on each cup and again sew on seam tape over raw edges.

Before we can sew the underwire casing onto the cups we need prepare and tack on the wings plus the bridge to the cups.

First sew plush hem elastic along the bottom hem of each wing, side "A" in the pattern draft.

As with the other bras, single zigzag stitch the plush hem elastic to the 5mm seam allowance on the right side of the wing then turn under and sew again using three step zigzag.

To get the right stretch to the plush elastic, mark the elastic 1cm shorter than wing hem and stretch sew (see other bra articles for full instructions on plush elastics).

Next measure the wing side "C" and transfer / mark on the cups along the 15mm seam.

Also mark the position of the bridge, 1cm down from the cup over bust seam.

Now tack stitch the wings to the cups, right side to right side and the bridge to one cup.

We will sew the bridge to the other cup after we have sewn the wire casing to one cup and turned it under.

Sewing the wings to the cups like this will "trap" the wing between the cup and underwire casing when we sew on the casing and turn it under.

Now we can sew on the underwire casing to the cups.

Sew the cup with the bridge first. You may find this easier than sewing underwire casing to a bra with cup cradles as for that you are sewing "blind" .

Start by placing the casing plush side up onto the fabric right side of the cup so that the casing is just overlapping the raw edge of the cup fabric.

Carefully sew the inner edge of the casing around the cup hem going over the wing and bridge finishing at the centre front.

Turn underwire casing under to the inside of cup and sew along other casing edge.

The wing and bridge will turn into the correct position.

You can now sew the free end of the bridge to the other cup, right fabric side to right fabric side.

And then sew underwire casing to the cup, turn under and sew just as you did with the first cup. You should end up with the cups, wings and bridge all sitting in the right place.

You can now see why this style is called "on cup" underwiring.

Next you can sew on plush elastic to the top hem of the wings and the arm curves of the cups.

First cut down the underwire casing at the underarm side of the cups by 12mm, this will make room for the plush elastic to be sewn on and turned down.

When you have cut the wire casing, sew across the casing to seal it in readiness for the wires to be inserted at the centre front ends of the casings.

To sew on the top hem plush elastic, follow the same procedure as the bottom hem, measure the length of the wing and arm curve of the cup and transfer the measurement – 1cm to the plush elastic then stretch and sew, single zigzag, fold over three step zigzag.

You can temporally put the underwires in the casings to check how the cup shape is working, but do not sew the wires in until the end.

First, using some of your chosen strap elastic, cut two 11cm lengths. Sew to one end of each, a strap ring, 1cm through ring and two runs of stitching. This will give you two strap attachments of 10cm long that will be sewn to the ends of the wings.

Next cut from strap elastic two pairs of gate elastics as per your gate pattern.

On the end of each wing, on the inside, sew a length of seam tape inside the 5mm seam allowance. Try not to stretch the Powernet as you sew.

Fold over the wings 5mm seam allowance and sew down.

Sew on the gate strap parts to the wings and sew strap ends together ready for the hook and eye tapes.

Place strap attachment over wing end / gate strap parts and sew down around three edges to form a bone pocket.

Insert bone between strap attachment and wing / gate assembly and sew closed the opening.

Now sew on hook and eye tapes to gate ends, hook on right wing, and eyes on left.

As a 50's / 60's style alternative to hooks and eyes you can use a single bikini / strap hook.

Using wide ribbon or fabric tape to attach the hook to one gate then using a length of the same ribbon or fabric tape, fold the tape in half and sew the ends around the other gate.

Sew across the folded tape at regular intervals to make "eyes" for the hook to go through.

Now make up two bra straps from 40cm of strap elastic for each and two strap sliders.

Thread straps through rings on strap attachments then through strap sliders.

Sew free ends to cups, no twisted straps please!

Insert underwires into casings; sew closed and trim of casing.

All that's left is to sew a cute bow onto the bridge (or in my example a butterfly) and try it on. Be sure to also try the bra with the cookie pads in the pockets.

Two alternatives to the bridge between the cups that would make the bra front fastening:

• Sew two lengths of ribbon in place of the bridge  and simply tie the cups together with a big ribbon bow
• Use the bikini / strap hook idea at the front, the bikini / strap hook sewn to one cup in the bridge position and a loop of ribbon / fabric tape at the bridge position on the other cup for the hook to "hook in" to. You can dress it up a bit and fasten a diamond or pearl to the hook.

You can try different fabrics for the cup parts, denier lined lace for the top panel with satin fabric for the bottom panel. Lace trims for the cup neck line hem or a delicately pleated net edge to the cups can also look pretty.

DO SOME DESIGNING!