The Art of Ribbon Embroidery, Part 2

If you read the first half of this article, you'll already have learned a few basic stitches that can be worked in ribbon embroidery. Now let's look at some more advanced techniques!

Overcast Running Stitch

This is a good three-dimensional stitch for stems and borders. It's worked over the basic running stitch and produces a twisted rope. Make your running stitch as long as necessary, then wrap the ribbon diagonally over the first stitch and under the second stitch. Repeat, wrapping the ribbon over and under until you've covered the entire length. For a thicker stitch, wrap the ribbon around each running stitch more than once.

Backstitch

While not often used in ribbon embroidery, the backstitch is a good stitch to know. It's excellent for creating lines, such as for borders, stems, and vines. To work the backstitch, you can go either from right to left or from left to right. Draw the needle up at point A, then go a short distance behind to point B. Bring the needle to the underside of the fabric and go a distance equal to the length of your first stitch and bring the needle up at point C.

Go back to point A and stab the fabric, bring your thread under the fabric again. Repeat, forming a line.

Stem Stitch

This stitch is excellent for making curving flower stems, vines, and borders, as well as for outlining shapes. To create the stem stitch, first determine where your line will go. Bring your needle up at point A and pierce the fabric at point B, about a quarter of an inch away. Don't pull your ribbon through yet. Angle your needle back toward point A and bring it up halfway between the two points, at point C.

Now pull your ribbon through. Point C becomes point A for the next stitch. Repeat, curving the stitches as necessary to create your line.

Fly Stitch

This stitch can be used for small clusters of leaves, a flock of birds, or for decoration. Bring the needle up from under the fabric at point A and pull the ribbon through. Take a short diagonal stitch from point B to point C, leaving a loose tail of ribbon that slides under the needle.

Pull the ribbon through and tack it down by stabbing the fabric at point D. This forms a V shaped stitch.

French Knot

This stitch creates a round knot that works well for stamens and flower buds, as well as decorative motifs. To work the French knot, bring the ribbon up at point A and wrap the ribbon around the needle twice (or three times for a thicker knot).

Stab the fabric just beside point A and pull the ribbon through to the underside of the fabric. Placing a finger against the wrapped ribbon as you pull the needle through will help the ribbon stay coiled tightly enough to make a firm knot.

Colonial Knot

This stitch is similar to the French knot, but makes lovely miniature roses. Instead of wrapping the ribbon straight around the needle, however, you wrap it in a figure eight pattern.

Bring your ribbon up at point A. Hold your needle parallel to the surface of the fabric, take the ribbon a few inches from where it comes up out of the fabric and wrap it around the needle from the front (left) to the back (right).
Bring the ribbon under the needle toward you, then bring it up to the left and cross over the ribbon.
Wrap the ribbon around the back of the needle and bring it toward you from underneath the needle. Pull it to the right, completing the figure eight.

While holding the ribbon taut, pierce the fabric just beside point A. Slide the knot down to the surface of the fabric and hold the ribbon down while you pull the needle through to the underside of the fabric. This completes the knot.

For a better look at this stitch, view Honey Bee's tutorial at YouTube.

Feather Stitch

This stitch is typically repeated to form a chain of stitches. It's often used to cover the seams in quilting or heirloom sewing, and it can also be used as a decorative border. Begin as you would the fly stitch, by coming up at point A, going to the right and taking a diagonal stitch from point B to point C, while leaving a loose tail of ribbon under the needle.

Draw the ribbon through, but instead of tacking the ribbon down, you're going to take a short diagonal stitch over to the left, from the new point B to the new point C. Draw the ribbon under the needle and pull through.

Repeat, moving the stitches from left to right.

Split Stitch

This is not a common ribbon embroidery stitch, but it makes an excellent solid line, good for stems or borders. Bring the needle up at point A and pull the ribbon through. Lay the ribbon flat against the fabric and pierce it at point B, as if doing a ribbon stitch.

On the underside of the fabric, go to the left and bring the needle up at point C. This now becomes point A for the next stitch.

Repeat, forming a line. You can curve the line somewhat, if necessary, but tight curves will end up jagged.

Lazy Daisy

This is a fun stitch that creates quick and easy flowers. Bring your needle up at point A, create a loop as big as you'd like your flower petal to be, bringing your needle back to point A. Stab the fabric just beside point A and bring your needle back up at point B, which is where the tip of your flower petal will be.

Take a small stitch over the ribbon to hold it in place. This is one lazy daisy stitch.

If worked in a circle, this stitch will create a stylized flower. For more natural-looking flowers, make a half or quarter-circle, as if you're seeing the flower from the side. Looser stitches will result in more realistic-looking petals.

Spiderweb Rose

This is a good way to produce a startlingly realistic rose. Use a tapestry needle regardless of your fabric type, as you'll be drawing your ribbon under a skeleton of thread and you don't want to catch any threads by accident.

First, you need to mark a circle on your fabric. You can draw this freehand or use a small button as a guide. The rose will be slightly larger than the circle you trace. Use a regular embroidery needle and bring a length of embroidery floss up at the center of the circle. Stitch five wheel spokes that stretch from the center point to the outer edges of the circle. Be sure the thread matches your ribbon color as closely as possible.

Take your ribbon and bring it up at the center of the circle. Twist the ribbon repeatedly, until it's loosely kinked. Skip the first spoke and pull your ribbon under the second spoke. Go around the circle in this manner, sliding the ribbon under every other spoke. Don't pull the ribbon too tight or it won't form petals, but make sure you keep it twisted.

Continue around the circle, skipping every other spoke, until you can no longer see the thread spokes. Stab the fabric just under the edge of the rose and draw your ribbon to the underside.

There are more stitches, of course, but with these basics you can create a garden full of embroidered flowers.

Detail Work

When you've finished embroidering with ribbon, you might add details to your work with embroidery floss. Consider tiny thorns on your rose stems, a miniature butterfly, ladybug, or dragonfly on a leaf, and so forth.

You might also add a bit of three-dimensional sparkle with beads. Imagine using yellow seed beads as flower stamens, or transparent crystals as dewdrops on a rose petal. You could enhance a border design with beads, as well.

You can even embellish your embroidery ribbon with fabric paint, creating variegated flower petals, or leaves with delicate veins on them. The possibilities for enhancing your embroidery work are limitless!

Tips

Buy more ribbon than you think you'll need. It's better to have extra when you're finished than to run out three-quarters of the way through your project.
When in doubt, use a bigger needle. Too-small needles tend to damage the delicate silk ribbon, causing runs. Bigger needles will allow the silk to pass through the fabric without snagging.
Don't worry overmuch about runs, should they occur. Chances are they won't show in your finished work. If they do, switch to a bigger needle, cut a new length of ribbon, and start again.
Try to maintain an even tension while working your stitches. Don't pull the ribbon too tight across the fabric or you may damage it.
Use a finger to keep the ribbon straight as you make each stitch. Unintentionally twisted ribbon will distort your stitches.
Always pull the ribbon in the direction in which the stitch will lie when it's finished.
Use a tapestry needle to manipulate your ribbon as you form each stitch. It gives you more control over how the stitches appear.
Work in small sections at a time and don't carry your ribbon over long distances on the back of your work. When you complete one area, cut your ribbon and finish it neatly, then start fresh with a new length of silk ribbon.
Keep your length of ribbon short, no longer than twelve to fourteen inches. This will cut down on the wear that occurs when the ribbon is pulled through the fabric with each stitch. Also, shorter lengths will not wrinkle or tangle as easily.
Be careful to avoid catching the ribbon on the underside of your fabric with your needle. Piercing it unnecessarily can damage the silk ribbon. It can also make it difficult to undo your stitches if you notice a mistake and want to start over.
Always cut your ribbon on the diagonal. If you have trouble with the ends fraying, dab a little Fray Check to seal the ends of the ribbon.