I was wondering if anyone could point me towards information on the engineering of corsets. Things like how the shape of the fabric pieces and location and number of bones affect the shape that can be achieved. Also, how to determine pressures on the body, whether transferring load (of the wearer's body) is possible and how to go about doing this. I've tried to locate this information, but it seems to be a very closely guarded, and perhaps forgotten secret. I'm not so much interested in creating/forcing a historical figure as I am in trying to refine the wearer's natural figure.

Thanks

Hi,

I'm quite new to corsetry, but this might help:

Steel and spiral bones can give different shapes, as Jenni Hampshire shows here Comparing Steel/Spiral Boning - it looks as if spiral bones create a more dramatic curve.

From reading around, I'm not sure if number of bones effects the shape that dramatically, but perhaps you need more bones for dramatic tight-lacing, in order to stop the fabric from wrinkling?

Also this article might help you - Planning Out Boning Channels

I think the shape is more effected by the shape and placement of the panels. For instance, two seams with a straight line sewn together will make the body straight where the seams are, and two seams like this )( sewn together will bring the body in then out (like a waist). Sorry if this is too basic for you. From what I've read though, the more you experiment with pattern-making, the more you'll understand where to put the seams and what curves you need to give them in order to create the result you want. Maybe this might help too - Drafting your own Pattern

I'm sure I saw an equation on this website somewhere that showed the amount of pressure exerted on the seams of the corset...but I can't seem to find it at the moment. If I come across it again, I'll let you know.

Sorry I couldn't be of more help!