Last week, Laura covered the horizontal adjustments to the Silverado pattern. This week she completes the pattern alterations by covering the vertical dimensions.

Vertical Dimensions

At this point you will need to create a second copy of each panel piece to accommodate the varying vertical dimensions between the left and right halves of the corset. I find it a wise idea to have a total of three copies of each pattern piece at this stage:

1. Your original pattern (which for the moment will be your Master pattern and will act as a backup should you make a mistake with the other copies that can't be reversed).

2. A copy of the pattern pieces for the left side of the corset.

3. A copy of the pattern pieces for the right side of the corset.

For the left hand side of the corset, draw around the pattern pieces with the right side of the panel facing upwards. For the right, draw round the pattern pieces with the right side of the panel facing downwards.

Corset Left Side:  Pattern right side up

Corset Right Side: Pattern right side down

Be sure to mark each panel piece to denote which side of the corset it belongs to, as well as all markings given on the original pattern.

Note: I don't follow the boning guidelines given on the pattern so I won't put them on my copies. It's up to you if you chose to follow them or not, but if you do be sure to transfer them on to the copies. In the photos I have used pen, but it is a good idea to use a pencil first, and then use a pen to denote the cutting line.

On my patterns I differentiate between the corset sides using the following coding:

15 RSU (LEFT) – Panel 15, to be cut with fabric facing right side up, belongs to the left hand side of the corset.

15 RSU (RIGHT) - Panel 15, to be cut with fabric facing right side up, belongs to the right hand side of the corset.

I'll demonstrate how I would alter the pattern pieces for the left hand side of the corset.

Underbust to Waist Measurement We will start with the underbust to waist measurement. The first thing we need to do is establish the underbust line. Go to panel 12 and look at the right hand side pattern line. You will notice that halfway between the bustline and the waistline the pattern line moves inwards towards the waist. Make a mark at the point of this turn. Then look at the left hand side pattern line and mark a similar turning point. Then draw a line between the two. This will be your underbust line.

If you have trouble finding the turning point, or you want to check your placement: 1. Draw a line 15mm from the right hand edge of your chosen bust gusset (this corresponds to your stitch line). 2. Draw a line 15mm from the bottom of the gusset. 3. Roll the right hand edge of the gusset along whichever side of panel 12 you are having problems with. Essentially you want to trace the line of panel 12 with the edge of the gusset. Mark the panel piece where the stitch line stops and draw a line parallel to the waistline. This point is where the gore ends on the front of the corset, and should sit on the underbust point.

 

For the underbust to waist measurement, the pattern measures 83mm but I require 129mm, so I need to extend the panel by 46mm.

To do this, cut along the lengthen/shorten line and place a piece of card between the two panel halves to create the required extension. Use the grain line to ensure that you join the pieces together correctly. Rejoin the pattern lines on each side of the panel.

When rejoining the pattern lines, be sure to be mindful of the horizontal measurements and the intended shape of the pattern line. If you kept the original pattern as a backup it is very helpful to lay this over the copy to get a feel for the shaping you need. DON'T just draw a straight line to rejoin the pattern line. In some cases a straight line will throw off the desired shape by creating new turning points in the pattern line that will result in a seam that appears lumpy or wrinkly against the body. Smooth, flowing pattern lines create smooth, flowing seams. Place a ruler alongside where the pattern line needs rejoining and study the resulting shape.

 

Extend all other panels by the same distance on the lengthen/shorten line:

 

To shorten the panel:

1. Measure and mark the required amount of reduction above the lengthen/shorten line on each panel. At the marked position, draw a line parallel to the waistline.

2. Cut along both the lengthen/shorten line and the new line. Discard the reduction.

3. Rejoin the two halves of the panel together, using the grain line to ensure correct positioning.

4. Rejoin the pattern lines.

5. Trim away any excess.

Waist To Hip Measurement:

For this you will need Panel 14. Measure from the waistline to the hipline through the middle of the pattern– again, be sure to measure at a 90 degree angle to the waistline.

My pattern measures 126mm, but I require a measurement of 131mm, so I need to extend the panel by 5mm. To do this:

1. Ensure your grain line runs over the bottom edge of the panel by more than you need to extend the panel. So if you need to extend it by 25mm make sure the grain line overruns by a little more than 25mm. 2. Measure from the bottom of the corset to the amount you need to extend the panel by and mark. This is easiest if you measure along and mark the grain line. 3. Line up your original pattern piece with your drawn pattern piece so that the grain lines lie over each other and the bottom edge of the original lines up with the extension mark on the grain line.
4. Draw along the bottom of the original to create the extended bottom edge. In this photo I have extended the bottom edge by 1cm so you can clearly see the new line.
5. Grade the pattern lines to connect the new bottom edge to the pattern lines. DO NOT make the bottom edge any wider than the original as it will throw out the hip measurement. Rub out the old bottom edge. Now extend the other panels in the same way.

 

Extending the Lower Edge Below the Hipline

If the client wants the bottom of the corset to fall below the hipline,  be mindful of extending panels 11 and 12. If we extend all the panels by the same amount it is likely that the front panels will be so long they will inhibit movement and be very uncomfortable for the wearer.

To do this, you will need to calculate whether panel 11 needs to be extended at the hipline to accommodate a long busk, and then gradually reduce the size of the extension for each panel for panels 12 and 13. How much you reduce the extension will depend on how dramatic you want the curve at the bottom of the corset to be.

You can sit with a calculator and work out precise grading measurements to retain the curve from the hip to the front and back of the corset, but I prefer a more hands-on approach. I extend each panel but don't worry too much about the bottom edges matching perfectly. By extending a little more than I know I need to, I allow myself freedom to experiment when it comes to drawing the curve along the bottom edge of the corset at the toile stage. I find this gives much better results. It allows you to ensure that the curve flatters the figure of the client and allows them to have input into the design of their corset. There's no point spending ages doing the math if the client then says "I wanted it to curve more this way" because guess what? You'll be standing there with a pen marking out the curve on the body! This is also helpful if you want to experiment with unusual shapes to the bottom edge of your corset.

So instead, extend the Panels as follows:

• Panel 11 – Amount you need to extend for the busk
• Panel 12 – Same amount as you extended panel 11 by plus 1inch
• Panel 13 – Same amount as you extended panel 14.
• Panel 15 – Same amount as you extended panel 14.
• Panel 16 – Same amount as you extended panel 14.

This allows you the freedom to create any type of curve along the bottom of the corset.

If the corset is to be used to reshape the line of the hips, it is always worth adding an extra inch or two to panel 14's extension. That way you can be sure the corset will be long enough to perform the necessary adjustment. If it is too long you can simply cut some off during the toile stage.

If you need to shorten the panel, follow the same procedure described in the previous section.

Bustline

Most people find that the bustline is the hardest part of the corset to draft,  because the reaction of the breasts to a corset is largely unknown until the toile stage. This is due to the wide variety in the squish factor of the breasts from person to person. However, there are a few quick checks you can perform to help guide you. You need consider the size, firmness and level of support required when making your decisions.

When adjusting the bustline we will be using three measurements:

1. Upper bust to bustline (UPB-B)

2. Upper bust to under bust (UPB-UNB)

3. Bustline to under bust (BL-UNB)

Bustline to Underbust

Measure the length of your chosen gusset from the bustline point to the bottom and subtract 15mm (seam allowance). For the Silverado the bustline can be located approximately 30mm from the top of the gusset along the grain line.

You should find it measures around the 100mm mark. Mine measures at 101mm.

If your bustline to under bust measurement is more than 110mm you need to extend the length of the gore and panels 11, 12 and 13. The amount you extend by is calculated as follows:

(BL-UNB measurement) - (110)

• If the answer is less than 30mm extend the gusset by 15mm
• If the answer is more than 30 but less than 50 extend gusset by 25mm

If your bustline to under bust measurement is less than 110mm you need to consider the following:

• If the breasts are squidgy, the client's bra size is a "d cup" or above, the client does not suffer with painful breasts and:
  • (100) - (BL-UNB measurement) is less than 20mm, don't change anything, it is likely that the breasts will be able to lift to fill the bustline and that will create a pleasing curve at the bustline.

 

• If any of the above statements are false, reduce the length of the gusset and panels 11, 12 and 13 by

(90) - (BL-UNB measurement)

Lengthening the Gusset and Related Panels

Lengthening the gusset is best done by drawing a line 15mm below the bustline on the gusset. Cut along this line and & place a piece of card between the two panel halves to create the required extension. Use the grain line to ensure that you join the pieces together correctly. Rejoin the pattern lines on each side of the panel. If your extension is more than 15mm, reduce the width of the gusset by a few millimetres on each side. Draw a line 15mm below the bustline on the panels and extend the panel by the same amount as the gusset. Use the same technique as described above. To Shorten the Gusset Draw the same lengthen/shorten line 15mm below the bust line on gusset and panels. Reduce the panel as described previously.

Should you alter the gussets in any way, you will affect the dimensions of the breast as listed in the table. For example, if your Bustline to Underbust measurement is less than the length of the gusset as calculated in the first section and you did not shorten the gusset then your breast will be lifted and your bustline to underbust measurement will have changed. You need to then subtract the difference between the gusset length and your bustline to underbust measurement from your Bustline to Upper Bust measurement. Always keep the Upper Bust to Under Bust measurement unchanged and use it to double check that your figures add up.

 

Upper Bust to Bustline

The Silverado is designed as a mid-bust corset which means the breasts are not supported more than an inch or so above the bustline. In cases where clients have a large bra cup size and/or intend to wear the corset without a bra, it is worth considering raising the top edge of the corset.

I like extending the top of the corset so that the entire breast is covered, in which case I use the UPB – BL measurement to guide me when deciding how high the top needs to be raised to do this. Or, if I want the corset top to be positioned so that 75% of the breast is covered, I will extend the top so that it measures (UPB – BL) /2.

When extending the top of the corset, use the bustline as your lengthen line. Remember that the gussets and the associated panels (11, 12 and 13) will need to become slightly narrower above the bustline. Here is one I created for such a corset:

 

Next Steps

Once you get to this stage you have successfully completed the pattern altering stage and can move on to the toile stage.

Please refer back to the previous articles for useful articles and advice, Part 1 and Part 2.

In the next article we will begin the construction of the corset.

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