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TOPIC: Roll Pinning - Turn of Cloth with a 4 layer corset

Roll Pinning - Turn of Cloth with a 4 layer corset 2 years 1 month ago #438

  • lorisunrise
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I'm getting frustrated and will probably have to start over on the corset I'm working on. This is the first corset I've attempted that was more than just the strength layer and fashion fabric.

I wanted it to be a double-strength layer with a cotton fashion fabric. Plus, I wanted to floss/embroider it, but I didn't want the stitches to be seen on the inside, so I was going to do a floating lining. The problem, I screwed up working with so many layers somewhere in the process.... . I flatlined the fashion to the strength-layer-1, and put them all together, then tried roll pinning those to the second strength layer... This has not worked out for me. The seams don't line up (which is a minor nuisance, but something I kind of expected...) but the INSIDE stength layer has ended up wider than the outside layers.

IMG_1166b.jpg


And worse, I didn't notice this untill after I had started to sew the boning channels (sandwich method).

Ummmmm.... HELP!!!!! Please!!!

What are the proper construction steps or method I should have done to get this to work...
)O(
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Roll Pinning - Turn of Cloth with a 4 layer corset 2 years 1 month ago #439

  • may_bizzare
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What did you used for the strength layers? If you used coutil, then it seems you have too many layers (seems like you used too many layers no matter if it's coutil or something else). You could use one strength layer and make the boning channels using seam allowances or sew them on out of straps of coutil. I think the error came up when you tried to attach it to the second layers, it probably added too much bulk and it's wrinkling.
Last Edit: 2 years 1 month ago by may_bizzare. Report to moderator
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Roll Pinning - Turn of Cloth with a 4 layer corset 2 years 1 month ago #440

  • lorisunrise
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I used a heavy cotton duck canvas.

I've seen corsets made with two strength layers (coutil and other cotton types like duck and drill) and thought I'd give it a try. I'd still like to know how its done, because part of me wants to be stubborn and stick to trying to figure out how to do it. But as this corset is a commission for a friend, Ill probably take your advice, May_Bizzare, and order some coutil and do one layer and make internal boning channels. I'll try this method again on a corset that's for me, that way it won't matter how many times or how long it takes it takes me to muddle through it, so any advice would still be very helpful. :)
)O(
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Roll Pinning - Turn of Cloth with a 4 layer corset 2 years 1 month ago #443

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Yes they can be made of two strength layers, but one of them is in that case an outer layer, and the inner layer is also a lining. I have made 4 layer corset, but I used fashion fabric+ fusible interlining, strength layer and and a cotton lining, but never used two strength layers in combination with a fashion fabric and floating lining.
In your case I would replace one strength layer with fusible interlining, you would get much smoother and lightweight finish.
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Roll Pinning - Turn of Cloth with a 4 layer corset 2 years 1 month ago #444

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I forgot to add, you can additionally reinforce it by adding a waist tape, you haven't mention if you have already put it in.
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Roll Pinning - Turn of Cloth with a 4 layer corset 2 years 1 month ago #445

  • lorisunrise
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Yeah, I had put a waist tape in it. Thanks so much for the advice!
)O(
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