Hi ceciled,
Sorry for not getting back to you sooner, as usual I have 100 and 1 things on the go.
I have been meaning to cover this subject in an article for ages, as it is a fitting issue that the industry is still falling to address.
Yes, the old usual solution to a bra not sitting on the chest at centre front was to go up a cup size BUT women’s breasts are getting bigger and the shape is changing from a conical to a more rounded spheroid form. The industries main problem is that when they increase the cup size / volume the wire size also goes up, so the cup contains the volume of the breast but the underwire do’s not sit in the breast root to give support. It’s all to do with how they “mechanically” Grade bras.
Believe it or not you were thinking along the right lines when you talked about “The only solution I can see is to make cups that are shaped like torpedoes” it’s not a torpedo shape but a spherical shape cup that has a perimeter equal to a correct breast root fitting underwire, but the spheroid must be “asymmetrically” shaped.
If you would allow me some time as I have two more soft bra articles to finish, I will work up an article to explain how to draft the cup shape and you can be my “guinea-pig” for fitting.
Corset Hugs
Mark.