Hi,
First off this is a fantastic site with invaluable information. After having sewn clothing for several years, I've decided to take on the most important garment of all. The bra. Since having my child my bust is just out of control and I can't seem to find any bras that fit right.
I have drafted and made a bra using the instructions here. It fits quite well except I cannot get the underwires to stay flat against the middle of my chest. I've made several bras trying to remedy this problem but just cannot seem to fix it no matter what I do. The only solution I can see is to make cups that are shaped like torpedoes and then I'd lose any kind of support. I am a US 36k. Should I give up on underwires and switch to soft bras? I like to wear low necklines and most of the soft bras I've encountered gave me uniboob and would rise too high to stay under clothing.
Any tips? This has almost become an obsession for me lol. I've spent hours trying to figure out what to do. I believe the space between my breasts is smaller than average since I often have to make the center front a lot narrower than most patterns call for.
Thank you for your help.

Hi Ceciled!

Sadly, I don't have any advice based on your description. If you're comfortable posting a photo of the problem it might help us diagnose the problem. I don't know if Mark reads the forum regularly but you could also leave a comment on the bra drafting post itself asking about the issue. I believe he does check those.

Thank you. I have posted a comment with my inquiry. I've read on the web women with the same issue. Most advise to go up a cup size. I've tried that and the straps end up taking on a lot of weight which defeats the purpose.

And making the band smaller along with the larger cups isn't doing it? It seems like that might help counter it.

No unfortunately not. Basically the weight of my breasts pulls the wires away from my chest. Trying to defy gravity. Though I did read that it's a common problem for large busts. So I don't know. I thought making cups larger would fix it but it doesn't since I lose the rounded shape and my straps end up with the hauling job. It could be a breast shape issue where more tissue lies at the apex than the root.

Right-o. I wish I had any pointers for you. Did Mark ever get back to you with advice?