Just wanted to update with you on my progress since we're both having the same issues. I found that I got a better result with an underwire in the same shape as my original best fit but was about two sizes smaller. Also since I can't get my hands on industrial strength stainless steel underwires like the big lingerie companies, I doubled up the ones that are readily available to home sewers and got the same result strength. I reconfigured the cup again- a side power bar leading to a padded strap, four lower cup pieces and a contoured upper cup piece (think
Parfaits by Affinitas Charlotte bra, only with more pieces). Now the only problems I'm dealing with are (1) a flattening plane across the upper chest which causes a quad boob effect and (2) not as much lift as I would like. To solve problem (1), I'm going to spread and curve the upper portions of the lower cup pieces and spread the upper cup. For problem (2), I'm going to try a sturdier but still thin padding with rigilene supporting the vertical seams. Keep your fingers crossed that it works. Good luck to you too!!!